In arcade parlance, Jonathan Anderson’s spring JW Anderson collection hit the jackpot, perhaps the most potent distillation of his perspective on fashion yet — and a joy to behold.
The designer has been asking himself the questions lately — “Are we falling into the screen? Are we becoming our phones?” — and exploring the impact of the metaverse, the latest meteor hurtling toward planet fashion. He nailed it with his sensational and mildly disquieting spring men’s collection for Loewe, where his models wore clothes and shoes sprouting live plants, but had their faces obscured with those proverbial “black mirrors.”
Nicola Coughlan Opens Up About New Season of 'Bridgerton' and How the Netflix Show Has Influenced Her Style
The Show Must Go On: Harris Reed Injects Drama and Glamour Into a City in Mourning
Where to Eat, Drink, Shop and Soak Up Culture During London Fashion Week
He took a more playful approach on Saturday night, but his show was no less thought-provoking as models snaked through a maze of flashing video-game machines. Cue Emily Ratajkowski, her famous Sports Illustrated swimsuit-issue curves obscured by boyish pants and a loose T-shirt, out of which protruded two plastic fins: She had dived so deep into her surfer game that she became a surfboard.
The tropical beach scenes printed on neoprene rompers were stock screensavers grabbed from the internet, while the JWA logo was picked out in big, 3D computer keyboard buttons tacked to crinkled T-shirt dresses.
“So many ideas,” Michael Burke, chairman and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton, enthused after the show, explaining his presence by gesturing with his thumb and saying, “I live around the corner.”
Anderson was in an ebullient mood during his post-show scrum, thrilled to be back in London with his first live women’s runway event since 2020, and back at one of his university-day haunts, the Las Vegas Arcade Soho, next door to his flagship London JW Anderson boutique.
“I’m in a moment of reduction,” he said as a way to explain the preponderance of one- and two-piece outfits, and his wish to telegraph “individualism” and “realness.” So dresses became a mere bubble of chintz, a short swath of shower curtain knotted at one shoulder, or two lengths of perforated jersey ingeniously knotted to become surprisingly sexy gowns.
Mohair sweaters suspended from wire hangers around the neck were kooky; satin gowns topped with lace — gorgeous. The whole spectacle teemed with originality thanks to Anderson’s creative stew of wit, humor and fashion fireworks.
His tribute to Queen Elizabeth II was as succinct and assured as the collection: A black T-shirt writ with the years of her long, incredible life and the words “Thank you.”
Launch Gallery: JW Anderson RTW Spring 2023
Click here to read the full article.
Despite the Queen's passing, shows like JW Anderson, Simone Rocha and Christopher Kane brought fun, humor and beauty to the week.
A Guinness World Record-approved set-up, 5,000 people in attendance and Glenn Martens’ strongest collection: it was a good day at Diesel.
In a beautiful collection, Alessandro Dell’Acqua translated into clothes the mood swings of lovers.
At a London Fashion Week made poignant by the queen's funeral, the trends were sparkle, shine — and lots of skin.
Rosetta Getty tapped photographer Kristie Muller to collaborate for her latest collection.
The designer staged two shows in one. The first paid tribute to Queen Elizabeth II and the next was a camp take on sci-fi.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showed a sensational collection for the Be Real generation.
Vivienne Westwood has more in common with the British royals than meets the eye, including her commitment to planet activism.
Designers Lucinda Chambers and Molly Molloy always take a 360-degree approach, so the colorful, printed clothes were only part of the story this season.
Here were unapologetic disco kings and queens.
The designer made a splash with her London Fashion Week runway debut with dreamy hand-knotted organza dresses and mouth-watering 3D printed bags.
The designer looked to '30s Paris, Lee Miller and Man Ray for inspiration. The collection was sporty, elegant and tastefully sexy.
Daniel Del Core's woman never gets lost in the crowd.
NYFW and we're well on our way to the European shows. Here's what to catch up on.
Inspired by Karl Lagerfeld's Y2K-era work, Kim Jones turned our affinity for "ugly" shoes into something new and modern.
Andrea Pompilio offered a casualwear collection of elevated basics, taking the brand toward new territory.
The Sardinian designer proved that his imagination still runs wild, his natural talent for storytelling is intact and his prowess for fabric juxtaposition and artisanal techniques is charming as ever.
J.J. Martin continues to fine-tune her ever-expanding lifestyle brand.
The duo referenced vinyl dolls and spinning tops from their childhood growing up in the '90s in China.
Pop-tinged prints and crochet galore with a deeper aim: provide representation.